Mom's Bengali Biryani | A Family Recipe

The Story Behind the Biryani

In Bengali households, biryani shows up for festivals, gatherings, and any meal worth remembering. A steaming pot of aromatic rice layered with spiced meat sits at the center of the table.

This recipe belongs to Mahamoda, known to her family as Mom. On a particular afternoon, her son Ashraf, along with his wife Yasmeen, his childhood friend Amin, Amin's wife Atia, and their son Suhayb, gathered to document her process as she cooked.

"দেখো কি সুন্দর হয়েছে" (dekho ki shundor hoyeche) — Look how beautiful it has become.
— Mom, upon seeing the finished biryani

Bengali biryani stands apart from other regional versions. The rice is চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura), a tiny aromatic short-grain variety. The বেরেস্তা (beresta), golden fried onions, builds the flavor base. And দম (dum), slow covered cooking, brings everything together at the end.

A Note on Bengali Biryani

The family calls this dish তেহারি (Tehari) and বিরিয়ানি (Biryani) interchangeably. Traditional Tehari uses mustard oil and beef. This version uses chicken with ghee and vegetable oil, reflecting how the recipe adapted over time.

Ingredients

For a feast serving 10-12 people

The Proteins

Chicken Skinless, cut into 8-10 pieces per bird
2 whole
Hard-boiled Eggs Slit for flavor absorption
5-6

The Rice

চিনিগুড়া/কালিজিরা (Chinigura/Kalijira) Rice Bengali aromatic short-grain rice
4.5 cups
Hot Water
3.5 cups
Hot Milk
3.5 cups

The Aromatics

Onions (for বেরেস্তা/beresta) 4-5 large
Onions (for paste) Blended raw, separate from beresta
3 tbsp
Ginger Paste 2 tbsp
Garlic Paste 1 tbsp
Potatoes 8-10 pieces

The Spice Blend

Biryani Masala (Radhuni)Shan brand works if Radhuni is unavailable; use sparingly 3 tbsp
Turmeric Powder (হলুদ গুঁড়ো) 1 tsp
Chili Powder (মরিচ গুঁড়ো) 1 tsp
Green Cardamom 6-8 pods
Cinnamon Stick 1 large
Bay Leaves 2-3
Cloves 4-5
শাহী জিরা (Shahi Jeera/Black Cumin) 1 tsp
White Pepper 4-5 whole

The Yogurt & Nut Blend

Yogurt Blended with sugar and fried onions
1 cup
Sugar (for yogurt) 1 tsp
Cashews 40g (~8)
Golden Raisins 8
Milk (for nut paste) 1 cup

The Finishing Touches

Ghee (Baghabari)Baghabari brand has a distinct aroma Bengali brand preferred for its flavor
generous
Vegetable Oil as needed
কেওড়া জল (Kewra Water) Screwpine/pandan essence, NOT rose water
splash
আলু বোখারা (Aloo Bukhara/Dried Plums) 10-12
Green Chilies Split lengthwise
4-5
Orange Food Coloring as needed

The Recipe

Preparing the Chicken

Remove the skin from the chicken and cut each bird into 8-10 pieces. Mom trims the wing tips; they don't add much meat.

Clean each piece by hand in water, removing any remaining giblets or blood to ensure a clean scent in the final dish. This step takes time but makes a difference.

Mom says: "Chicken skin off... 8 pieces or 10 pieces per bird."

মুরগি কাটা (murgi kata)

ধোয়া (dhoa) — washing

কাঁচা মুরগি (kancha murgi)

কাটা (kata) — cutting

পরিষ্কার (porishkar)

সিংকে ধোয়া (sinke dhoa)

বেরেস্তা (Beresta): Fried Onions

Thinly slice the onions. Heat enough oil in a heavy pan so the onions are fully submerged—this is deep-frying, not caramelizing. Fry on medium heat for approximately 30 minutes until they turn a deep golden brown. This is বেরেস্তা (beresta), and it forms the flavor base for the entire dish.

Fry until crispy but not burnt—golden brown, not too red — বেশি লাল করবেন না (beshi lal korben na) means "don't make it too red." You'll notice a pleasant sweet smell when they're ready. Reserve most for garnishing; set aside some for blending into the yogurt.

Important: After removing the beresta, save the oil. Remove about half and set aside—you'll use this flavorful oil for blooming spices and cooking the chicken.

From Mom: "Onion has to be brown. This one is very important." Beresta takes patience. You cannot rush it.

পেঁয়াজ কাটা (peyaj kata)

ভাজা (bhaja) — frying

বেরেস্তা (beresta)

Sliced thin

Ready to fry

সোনালি (shonali) — golden

Frying Potatoes and Eggs

Peel the potatoes and halve them if large. Coat with salt and a touch of orange food coloring for that traditional festive appearance. Slit the hard-boiled eggs to help them absorb flavors.

Fry both on the lowest heat possible. This ensures they cook through without burning the exterior.

Low and Slow: "You fry the potatoes and eggs at the lowest heat possible" to prevent the food coloring from burning.

রং লাগানো (rong lagano)

ধীরে ভাজা (dhire bhaja)

ডিম ও আলু (dim o aloo)

ডিম (dim) — eggs

ডিম ভাজা (dim bhaja)

মেশানো (meshano)

The Three Blends

Prepare three pastes:

Yogurt Blend: Blend together yogurt, 1 tsp sugar, and some of the fried onions until smooth
Nut Paste: Add 40g cashews and 8 golden raisins to 1 cup milk—no need to soak — ভেজানোর দরকার নেই (bhejanor dorkar nei) — and blend until completely smooth. Keep blending until the rattling sound stops.
Onion Paste: Blend about 3 tablespoons of raw onion until smooth. This is separate from the beresta.

Note: Adding sugar to the yogurt balances its acidity — চিনি দিলে স্বাদ বাড়ে (chini dile shad bare) means "sugar enhances the flavor." This makes for a richer gravy.

Cashews & raisins

Grinding nut paste

দই (doi) blend

Ingredients ready

বাঘাবাড়ি ঘি (ghee)

রং (rong) coloring

কষা (Kosha): Cooking the Chicken

In a heavy-bottomed pot, add the reserved beresta oil. This step-by-step order matters:

Bloom the whole spices: Add bay leaves, cinnamon stick, and cardamom to the hot oil. Stir until fragrant.
Fry fresh onions: Add sliced onions and fry until the raw smell disappears — কাঁচা গন্ধ চলে যাবে (kancha gondho chole jabe) means "the raw smell will go away."
Add pastes: Stir in ginger paste (2 tbsp) and garlic paste (1 tbsp).
Add chicken: Add all chicken pieces and coat thoroughly.
Add dry spices: Sprinkle in turmeric powder, chili powder, and biryani masala.
Add the blends: Pour in the yogurt blend, nut paste, and onion paste.
Add beresta: Add a generous portion of the fried onions.
Season: Add salt to taste.
Add potatoes and eggs: Once the chicken is nearly done, add the fried potatoes and eggs into the kosha. They cook together, absorbing flavor.
Continue cooking: Slow sauté until the oil separates and rises to the top — তেল উপরে উঠে আসবে (tel upore uthe ashbe) means "the oil will rise to the top."

The Kosha Test: The chicken is ready when you see oil floating separately from the gravy. This takes time and patience.

মসলা ফোড়ন (moshla phoron)

মুরগি ভাজা (murgi bhaja)

Adding pastes

বেরেস্তা তেল (oil)

কষা (kosha) cooking

মেশানো (meshano)

Preparing the Rice

Wash the চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura) rice 3-4 times until the water runs clear. Drain thoroughly and let the water drip out completely — পানি ঝরলে চালটা ঝরঝরে হবে (pani jhorle chalta jhorjhore hobe) means "if the water drains, the rice will be fluffy."

In a large pot, heat ghee and oil together. Add the whole spices: cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaves, cloves, white pepper, and শাহী জিরা (shahi jeera/black cumin).

Add the drained rice and fry on low heat while stirring continuously. The rice will turn slightly opaque and make a "popping" or "crackling" sound. This ensures separate, fluffy grains.

Listen for it: "You'll hear the popping sound so you continue to stir." Fry until you hear the rice popping. This ensures every grain stays distinct.

চাল ধোয়া (chal dhoa)

মসলা (moshla)

চাল ভাজা (chal bhaja)

চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura)

Pouring rice

তেল গরম (tel gorom)

The Liquid Ratio

Precision matters here. For 4.5 cups of rice:

3.5 cups hot water
3.5 cups hot milk
Total: 7 cups liquid

The liquid must be hot, never cold. Adding cold liquid to hot rice will shock it and affect the texture.

Mom's exact words: "7 cups exactly. 3.5 cups পানি (pani/water), 3.5 cups milk."

গরম পানি ও দুধ (garam pani o dudh)

দম (Dum): Slow Steaming

Once the rice has absorbed most of the liquid on the stovetop, it's time for final assembly:

Add the chicken কষা (kosha) — with potatoes and eggs already in it — to the rice pot
Add আলু বোখারা (aloo bukhara) — dried plums for sweetness
Add কাঁচা মরিচ (kancha morich) — green chilies split lengthwise for aroma, not heat
Sprinkle বেরেস্তা (beresta) — fried onions generously on top
Drizzle ঘি (ghee) for richness
Add কেওড়া জল (kewra jol) — a splash of screwpine water for that distinctive Bengali biryani aroma

Important: When combining, fold the ingredients together gently—don't stir aggressively. "You fold it in... you don't mix it, so that you don't break the rice."

Cover tightly and place in an oven preheated to 350°F (can go as low as 300°F but will take longer). Let it cook for 20-30 minutes.

On দম (dum): The oven method creates even, gentle heat that mimics traditional dum cooking. Seal the lid well. "দম দেওয়া শেষ" (dom deowa shesh) means "the slow steaming is finished"—your biryani is ready!

দম সাজানো (dum shajano)

মেশানো (meshano)

শেষ (shesh) — done!

বিরিয়ানি (biryani)

সব একসাথে (shob ekshathe)

পরিবেশন (poribeshon)

The finished biryani

Mom's Tips

বেরেস্তা (Beresta) Matters

Golden fried onions are the flavor base, not just garnish. Blend some into the yogurt for a richer gravy. Deep-fry for about 30 minutes.

Save the Beresta Oil

After frying onions, save that flavorful oil. You'll use it to bloom spices and cook the kosha.

Hot Liquids Only

Never add cold water or milk to the rice. Use boiling water and hot milk to keep the temperature consistent.

The 7-Cup Ratio

For 4.5 cups rice, use exactly 7 cups liquid (half water, half milk). Do not change this ratio.

Low Heat for Frying

Potatoes and eggs should be fried on the lowest heat to prevent the food coloring from burning before the insides cook.

Sugar in Yogurt

Add 1 tsp sugar to the yogurt blend. It balances the acidity and makes a richer gravy.

শাহী জিরা (Shahi Jeera), Not Regular

Use black cumin for the rice. It has a distinct flavor that regular cumin cannot match.

Fold, Don't Stir

When combining rice and chicken for dum, fold gently to avoid breaking the rice grains.

কেওড়া জল (Kewra Water), Not Rose Water

Bengali biryani uses kewra water (screwpine/pandan essence), not rose water. They have completely different flavors.

Potatoes & Eggs in the Kosha

Don't just use them as garnish. Add them to the chicken kosha so they absorb all the flavors.

Bengali Biryani vs. Others

Bengali biryani uses চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura) rice, a tiny aromatic short-grain variety, rather than the long Basmati common in Indian and Pakistani versions. The potatoes and spice blend are also different.

The family debates whether to serve it with বোরহানি (Borhani), a spicy yogurt drink, or লাচ্ছি (Lassi), a sweet one. The answer depends on whom you ask.

From Our Kitchen

Moments captured during the making of this biryani

বিরিয়ানি (biryani)

শেষ দেখা (shesh dekha)

বেরেস্তা (beresta)

চাল ভাজা (chal bhaja)

দম (dum)

কষা (kosha)

Finished dish

Closeup

Served

Plated

On the table

সম্পূর্ণ (shompurno)

Bonus: বোরহানি (Borhani)

The traditional Bengali drink to accompany biryani

বোরহানি (Borhani) is a spiced yogurt drink that Bengali families serve alongside biryani. It aids digestion and provides a cooling contrast to the rich, spiced rice.

Ingredients

Thick Yogurt (দই/doi) 2 cups
Cold Water 1 cup
Fresh Mint Leaves (পুদিনা/pudina) 1/4 cup
Fresh Coriander Leaves 2 tbsp
Green Chili 1-2
Roasted Cumin Powder (ভাজা জিরা/bhaja jeera) 1 tsp
Black Salt (বিট লবণ/bit lobon) 1/2 tsp
Regular Salt to taste
Sugar 1/2 tsp (optional)

Method

Blend the mint leaves, coriander, and green chili with a splash of water until smooth.
Whisk the yogurt until smooth and lump-free.
Add the cold water to the yogurt and mix well.
Stir in the green paste, roasted cumin powder, black salt, and regular salt.
Add sugar if you prefer a hint of sweetness to balance the tang.
Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Serve cold, garnished with a sprinkle of roasted cumin and a mint leaf.

Serving Note: Borhani should be served very cold. The black salt (বিট লবণ/bit lobon) gives it a distinctive sulfurous tang that aids digestion. Adjust the green chili based on your heat preference.