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Mom's Bengali Biryani

A treasured family recipe, passed down with love

মায়ের বিরিয়ানি (mayer biryani) — Mom's Biryani

Bengali Biryani

Documented by the family of Mahamoda

The Story Behind the Biryani

In Bengali households, biryani shows up for festivals, gatherings, and any meal worth remembering. A steaming pot of aromatic rice layered with spiced meat sits at the center of the table.

This recipe belongs to Mahamoda, known to her family as Mom. On a particular afternoon, her son Ashraf, along with his wife Yasmeen, his childhood friend Amin, Amin's wife Atia, and their son Suhayb, gathered to document her process as she cooked.

"দেখো কি সুন্দর হয়েছে" (dekho ki shundor hoyeche) — Look how beautiful it has become.
— Mom, upon seeing the finished biryani

Bengali biryani stands apart from other regional versions. The rice is চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura), a tiny aromatic short-grain variety. The বেরেস্তা (beresta), golden fried onions, builds the flavor base. And দম (dum), slow covered cooking, brings everything together at the end.

A Note on Bengali Biryani

The family calls this dish তেহারি (Tehari) and বিরিয়ানি (Biryani) interchangeably. Traditional Tehari uses mustard oil and beef. This version uses chicken with ghee and vegetable oil, reflecting how the recipe adapted over time.

Ingredients

For a feast serving 8-10 people

The Proteins

  • Chicken Skinless, cut into 8-10 pieces per bird
    2 whole
  • Hard-boiled Eggs Slit for flavor absorption
    5-6

The Rice

  • চিনিগুড়া/কালিজিরা (Chinigura/Kalijira) Rice Bengali aromatic short-grain rice
    4.5 cups
  • Hot Water
    3.5 cups
  • Hot Milk
    3.5 cups
  • কষার ঝোল (Koshar Jhol) Gravy reserved from the chicken kosha
    1 cup

The Base

  • Onions (for বেরেস্তা/beresta) 5 large
  • Onions (for paste) Blended raw, separate from beresta
    3 tbsp
  • Ginger Paste 2 tbsp
  • Garlic Paste 1 tbsp
  • Red Potatoes 8-10 pieces

Spices for the Kosha

  • Biryani Masala (Radhuni)Shan brand works if Radhuni is unavailable; use sparingly 3 tbsp
  • Turmeric Powder (হলুদ গুঁড়ো) 2 tsp
  • Chili Powder (মরিচ গুঁড়ো) 2 tsp
  • Green Cardamom 8 pods
  • Black Cardamom (বড় এলাচ) 4 pods
  • Cinnamon Sticks 2 large
  • Bay Leaves 2
  • White Pepper 8 whole
  • Mace (জয়িত্রী/Joitri) 1 tsp
  • Cloves 4
  • Onion Sliced, for frying in kosha
    1

Spices for the Rice

  • Green Cardamom 4 pods
  • Black Cardamom (বড় এলাচ) 1 pod
  • Cinnamon Stick 1 large
  • Bay Leaves 2
  • Cloves 4
  • White Pepper 4 whole
  • শাহী জিরা (Shahi Jeera/Black Cumin) 1 tsp
  • Green Chilies Split lengthwise, stems removed
    4-5
  • Onion ½

The Yogurt-Nut Blend

  • Yogurt 1 cup
  • Sugar 1 tsp
  • Fried Onions (beresta) some
  • Cashews 40g (~8)
  • Golden Raisins 8
  • Milk 1 cup

The Finishing Touches

  • Ghee (Baghabari)Baghabari brand has a distinct aroma Bengali brand preferred for its flavor
    generous
  • Vegetable Oil as needed
  • কেওড়া জল (Kewra Water) Screwpine/pandan essence
    splash
  • Orange Food Coloring as needed
  • Salt to taste

The Recipe

1

Preparing the Chicken

Remove the skin from the chicken and cut each bird into 8-10 pieces. Mom trims the wing tips; they don't add much meat.

Clean each piece by hand in water, removing any remaining giblets or blood to ensure a clean scent in the final dish. This step takes time but makes a difference.

Mom says: "Chicken skin off... 8 pieces or 10 pieces per bird."
মুরগি কাটা (murgi kata)
ধোয়া (dhoa) — washing
Raw chicken
কাঁচা মুরগি (kacha murgi)
Cutting chicken
কাটা (kata) — cutting
Washing chicken
পরিষ্কার (porishkar)
Washing in sink
সিংকে ধোয়া (sinke dhoa)
2

বেরেস্তা (Beresta): Fried Onions

Thinly slice the onions. Heat enough oil in a heavy pan so the onions are fully submerged—this is deep-frying, not caramelizing. Fry on medium heat for approximately 30 minutes until they turn a deep golden brown. This is বেরেস্তা (beresta), and it forms the flavor base for the entire dish.

Fry until crispy but not burnt—golden brown, not too red — বেশি লাল করবেন না (beshi lal korben na) means "don't make it too red." You'll know it's ready when you notice a pleasant sweet aroma. Reserve most for garnishing; set aside some for blending into the yogurt.

Important: After removing the beresta, save the oil. Remove about half and set aside—you'll use this flavorful oil for blooming spices and cooking the chicken.

From Mom: "Onion has to be brown. This one is very important." Beresta takes patience. You cannot rush it.
পেঁয়াজ কাটা (peyaj kata)
ভাজা (bhaja) — frying
বেরেস্তা (beresta)
Slicing onions
Sliced thin
Onions on cutting board
Ready to fry
Onions frying
সোনালি (shonali) — golden
3

Frying Potatoes and Eggs

Peel the potatoes and halve them if large. Coat with salt and a touch of orange food coloring for that traditional festive appearance. Slit the hard-boiled eggs to help them absorb flavors.

Fry both on the lowest heat possible. This ensures they cook through without burning the exterior.

Low and Slow: "You fry the potatoes and eggs at the lowest heat possible" to prevent the food coloring from burning.
রং লাগানো (rong lagano)
ধীরে ভাজা (dhire bhaja)
Boiled eggs and potatoes
ডিম ও আলু (dim o aloo)
Hard boiled eggs
ডিম (dim) — eggs
Eggs frying
ডিম ভাজা (dim bhaja)
Mixing ingredients
মেশানো (meshano)
4

The Two Blends

Prepare two pastes:

  • Yogurt-Nut Blend: First, blend together yogurt, 1 tsp sugar, and some of the fried onions until smooth. Separately, add 40g cashews and 8 golden raisins to 1 cup milk—no need to soak — ভেজানোর দরকার নেই (bhejanor dorkar nei) — and blend until completely smooth. Keep blending until the rattling sound stops. Then combine both mixtures together.
  • Onion Paste: Blend about 3 tablespoons of raw onion until smooth. This is separate from the beresta.
Note: Adding sugar to the yogurt balances its acidity — চিনি দিলে স্বাদ বাড়ে (chini dile shad bare) means "sugar enhances the flavor." This makes for a richer gravy.
Cashews & raisins
Grinding nut paste
দই (doi) blend
Biryani ingredients
Ingredients ready
Ghee in hand
বাঘাবাড়ি ঘি (ghee)
Color ingredients
রং (rong) coloring
5

কষা (Kosha): Cooking the Chicken

In a heavy-bottomed pot, add the reserved beresta oil. This step-by-step order matters:

  1. Bloom the whole spices: Add 2 bay leaves, 2 cinnamon sticks, 8 green cardamom pods, 4 black cardamom pods, 8 white peppercorns, 4 cloves, and 1 tsp mace (জয়িত্রী) to the hot oil. Stir until fragrant.
  2. Fry fresh onions: Add sliced onions and fry until the raw smell disappears — কাঁচা গন্ধ চলে যাবে (kacha gondho chole jabe) means "the raw smell will go away."
  3. Add pastes: Stir in the onion paste, ginger paste (2 tbsp), and garlic paste (1 tbsp).
  4. Add chicken: Add all chicken pieces and coat thoroughly.
  5. Add dry spices: Sprinkle in 2 tsp turmeric powder, 2 tsp chili powder, and 3 tbsp biryani masala.
  6. Add the yogurt-nut blend: Pour in the yogurt-nut blend.
  7. Add beresta: Add a generous portion of the fried onions.
  8. Season: Add salt to taste.
  9. Continue cooking: Slow sauté until the oil separates and rises to the top — তেল উপরে উঠে আসবে (tel upore uthe ashbe) means "the oil will rise to the top."
The Kosha Test: The chicken is ready when you see oil floating separately from the gravy. This takes time and patience.
মসলা ফোড়ন (moshla phoron)
মুরগি ভাজা (murgi bhaja)
Adding pastes
Oil in pan
বেরেস্তা তেল (oil)
Cooking biryani
কষা (kosha) cooking
Mixing biryani
মেশানো (meshano)
6

Preparing the Rice

Wash the চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura) rice 3-4 times until the water runs clear. Drain thoroughly and let the water drip out completely — পানি ঝরলে চালটা ঝরঝরে হবে (pani jhorle chalta jhorjhore hobe) means "if the water drains, the rice will be fluffy."

In a large pot, heat ghee and oil together. Add the whole spices: 4 green cardamom pods, 1 black cardamom pod, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves, 4 cloves, 4 white peppercorns, 1 tsp শাহী জিরা (shahi jeera/black cumin), and 4-5 green chilies (split lengthwise, stems removed). Add half an onion (sliced) and fry briefly.

Add the drained rice and fry on low heat while stirring continuously. The rice will turn slightly opaque and make a "popping" or "crackling" sound. This ensures separate, fluffy grains.

Listen for it: "You'll hear the popping sound so you continue to stir." Fry until you hear the rice popping. This ensures every grain stays distinct.
চাল ধোয়া (chal dhoa)
মসলা (moshla)
চাল ভাজা (chal bhaja)
Aromatic rice bag
চিনিগুড়া (Chinigura)
Pouring rice
Pouring rice
Oil heating in wok
তেল গরম (tel gorom)
7

The Liquid Ratio & First Oven Phase

Precision matters here. For 4.5 cups of rice:

  • 3.5 cups hot water
  • 3.5 cups hot milk
  • 1 cup কষার ঝোল (koshar jhol) — gravy reserved from the chicken kosha
  • Total: 8 cups liquid

The liquid must be hot, never cold. Adding cold liquid to hot rice will shock it and affect the texture.

Stovetop: Boil for 5-7 minutes until the liquid starts bubbling and rice begins absorbing.

First oven phase: Cover and place in oven at 350°F for 15-20 minutes until rice has absorbed most of the liquid (~80% absorbed, rice still slightly wet).

গরম পানি ও দুধ (garam pani o dudh)
8

দম (Dum): Second Oven Phase

After the first oven phase, remove the pot and add the chicken কষা (kosha) to the rice.

Important: When combining, fold the ingredients together gently—don't stir aggressively. "You fold it in... you don't mix it, so that you don't break the rice."

Cover tightly and return to oven at 350°F for 20-30 minutes. This is the দম (dum)—the final slow steaming that brings everything together.

On দম (dum): The oven method creates even, gentle heat that mimics traditional dum cooking. Seal the lid well. "দম দেওয়া শেষ" (dom deowa shesh) means "the slow steaming is finished."

After the dum is complete, add the finishing touches:

  1. Drizzle কেওড়া জল (kewra jol), ঘি (ghee), and 3 cut কাঁচা মরিচ (kacha morich/green chilies) over the biryani
  2. Stir gently to incorporate
  3. Pour into a serving tray
  4. Arrange the fried আলু (potatoes) and ডিম (eggs) on top
  5. Sprinkle বেরেস্তা (beresta) — fried onions generously on top
দম সাজানো (dum shajano)
মেশানো (meshano)
শেষ (shesh) — done!
Bengali biryani
বিরিয়ানি (biryani)
Complete biryani
সব একসাথে (shob ekshathe)
Biryani on table
পরিবেশন (poribeshon)

The finished biryani

Bonus: বোরহানি (Borhani)

The traditional Bengali drink to accompany biryani

বোরহানি (Borhani) is a spiced yogurt drink that Bengali families serve alongside biryani. It aids digestion and provides a cooling contrast to the rich, spiced rice.

Ingredients

  • Thick Yogurt (দই/doi) 2 cups
  • Cold Water 1 cup
  • Fresh Mint Leaves (পুদিনা/pudina) 1/4 cup
  • Fresh Coriander Leaves 2 tbsp
  • Green Chili 1-2
  • Roasted Cumin Powder (ভাজা জিরা/bhaja jeera) 1 tsp
  • Black Salt (বিট লবণ/bit lobon) 1/2 tsp
  • Regular Salt to taste
  • Sugar 1/2 tsp (optional)

Method

  1. Blend the mint leaves, coriander, and green chili with a splash of water until smooth.
  2. Whisk the yogurt until smooth and lump-free.
  3. Add the cold water to the yogurt and mix well.
  4. Stir in the green paste, roasted cumin powder, black salt, and regular salt.
  5. Add sugar if you prefer a hint of sweetness to balance the tang.
  6. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving.
  7. Serve cold, garnished with a sprinkle of roasted cumin and a mint leaf.
Serving Note: Borhani should be served very cold. The black salt (বিট লবণ/bit lobon) gives it a distinctive sulfurous tang that aids digestion. Adjust the green chili based on your heat preference.